The Big Four Fashion Weeks: New York, London, Milan and Paris

The four major Fashion Weeks are held semi-annually and internationally. Each one of the Fashion Weeks has a unique style, all their own.

In 1943, New York held the first Fashion Week, and has been the quintessential idea of fashion week ever since. Now known as the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, it does seem to be the most commercialized of the big fashion shows, in that the clothes are created ready-for-market. Its styles and designs are arguably a lot 'safer' than the other three locations.

In 1984, London jumped on the fashion train and recently has been making a splash with its high-end couture. London Fashion Week has not yet reached the commercial level of New York and is less likely to follow fashion trends. Rather, each London fashion house showcases its unique take on fashion-forward concepts, and their collections are still market ready. The heavy hitters in London like Richard Nicholl, Christopher Kane and Giles Deacon are all amazing designers who produce commercially viable collections that would stand out at any of the fashion shows around the world.

Milan's version of the week was established in 1958 and is part of the Big Four internationally. It is owned by a nonprofit association which disciplines, coordinates and promotes the development of Italian Fashion and is responsible for hosting the fashion events and shows of Milan called Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. The original Italian Fashion Week was not held in Milan, instead it was held in Florence at the hands of Giovan Battista Giorgini. He held the first "fashion parade" in the living room of his house "Villa Torrigiani". Then the Italian week later moved to Rome, and then Milan where it is currently held in haute style today.

Paris is known as the fashion capital of the world, and holds the finale position in the fashion show tour. Paris Fashion Week brings each season's chaotic schedule of international fashion weeks to an end. High-end French designers include: Christian Dior, Coco Chanel, and Louis Vuitton along with many more stunningly talented designers. Typically, Paris has some of the most extravagant shows, especially with Paris Couture Week.

No matter which of the Big Four is your favorite, each week is sure to dazzle its audience with new haute couture designs year after year. In addition to haute couture trends, innovative fashion designs have also been making a big impact, especially in New York, the only location that allows a fashion school to feature its students' designs, which are often very fresh and inspirational. It is definitely important to keep up with the latest runway styles from all four weeks to stay on top of upcoming trends for the next season.

An Insight into Fashion Week

Fashion shows first made their appearance in the early 1900's, and now over 1000 years on, a prolonged event named 'Fashion Week' takes place across the world two times a year. The event is proven to be more dominant within the fashion capitals of the world: London, New York, Paris and Milan. This designated week is a crucial and stressful week for all clothing designers as it is their chance to showcase their latest seasonal collections to the press and to their public buyers.

The catwalk shows are a chance to show off their stunning new garments and hope for a huge reaction off the audience. Whilst some designs are future forward and over the top, they are unlikely to be worn by our modern-day public. This is where the high street comes in. High street stores often take a look at runway trends and create either carbon copies of a trend or tone them down to make them more buyer-friendly. They use the catwalk shows as inspiration and take into consideration what their customers would like to wear on a daily basis in a hope to make a big profit, although, many people prefer designer brand wear due to the high quality, intricate detailing and for the brand name alone. This means they do not mind paying extra money for something that is going to last a lifetime.

The audience is usually scattered with journalists, buyers and a whole bunch of 'A list' celebrities that gather and sit on the front row. Celebrities are the most common people to purchase and wear these designer creations as they can afford to buy numerous garments to wear to other press events. This helps to further promote the specific brands among the rest of the world thus deserving a seat at the front of the runway show for observation. Celebrities wearing these branded garments may attend a wide range of events that differentiate by audience, for example musicians, actors and socialites. Being among varied audiences will draw in a large amount of potential buyers as they get photographed by the press for a variety of magazines.

With fashion week still going strong and proving to be increasing popular worldwide, it seems the 4 fashion capitals will always be the homes of fashion as they bring in a whole host of leading designers and A list celebrities resulting in these shows being the biggest and best in the world.

What's on the Fashion Calendar for April

April looms large on the museum calendar with the opening of two concurrent shows in Paris at the Musee Galliera de la Mode  -- Comme des Carcons: White Drama and Cristobal Balenciaga, Collector of Fashions.

Comme des Garcons: White Drama
Photograph copyright of Paolo Roversi

In Comme des Garcons: White Drama, designer Rei Kwakubo has choreographed an installation in which the drama of fashioning life's events - birth, marriage, death, and transcendence - is celebrated through the use of pure, ceremonial white of every hue. The exhibition includes: budding flowers, layered handkerchiefs, overcoats, a wedding gown like the silky cocoon of an insect, and other "fashion architecture" created by Rei Kawakubo.

Cape du soir haute couture 1963, Archives Cristobal Balenciaga
Photograph copyright of Schelteris & Abbenes

In Christobal Balenciaga, Collector of Fashions, items from the private archives of Balenciaga, including stays, boleros, capes, bustles dresses, mantillas, embroidery samples and other items, are presented alongside forty haute couture coats and dresses designed by Balenciaga from 1937 to 1968. The exhibition also includes photographs and sketches as well as books on art and costume history as evidence of the designer's passion for history.

Curated by Olivier Saillard, these two exhibitions promise to be visually and intellectually enchanting, and will open to the public on April 13, 2012. I was invited to the opening party, but will not get there until later in the spring.

Both shows are at Les Docks - Cite de la Mode et du Design.
34 quai Austerlitz
75013 Paris
Tel: 01 76 77 25 30

April 13 - October 7, 2012
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm, except public holidays.

Yves Saint Laurent SS12 PARIS

Yves Saint Laurent, SS 2012, Paris, Erjona Ala and Kasia Struss.

In honor of Stefano Pilati's leaving that was announced today:( SO SAD!

And that concludes SS2012! 

Stay tuned for AW 2012 which is happening right now, will be posting the new season this week!

And follow me on Facebook for more regular updates:)

Valentino SS12 PARIS

Valentino, SS 2012, Paris, Bette Franke and Freja Beha Erichsen.

My most favorite of ALL the shows. Give me a job Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri!

Louis Vuitton SS12 PARIS

Louis Vuitton, SS 2012, Paris, Morgane Warnier and Fei Fei Sun.

Marc Jacobs threatening Karl as the next big showman! Incredible presentation.

Isabel Marant SS12 PARIS

Isabel Marant, SS 2012, Paris, Arizona Muse and Bette Franke.

I know this is SS but all I want for winter is multi-colour hand made knits!

Haider Ackermann SS12 PARIS

Haider Ackermann, SS 2012, Paris, Janice Alida and Melissa Tammerijn.

Such a beautiful projection of what this man (Haider) would wear if he was a woman.

Gareth Pugh SS12 PARIS

Gareth Pugh, SS 2012, Paris, Elsa Sylvan and Alla Kostromichova.

Amazing Shapes in stiff plastics. Loved the white feather eye make-up!

Carven SS12 PARIS

Carven, SS 2012, Paris, Kate Kosushkina and Larissa Hoffman.

My two very fashionable friends Andrea and Poppy got me onto this label, THANKYOU!

Emanuel Ungaro SS12 PARIS

Emanuel Ungaro, SS 2012, Paris, Aymeline Valade and Hanne Gaby Odiele.

My favorite colours in beautiful silk prints! But we need a head designer please!

Elie Saab SS12 PARIS

Elie Saab, SS 2012, Paris, Jac and Zuzanna Bijoch.

Drapey and dreamy chiffons. 

Dries Van Noten SS12

 

Dries Van Noten, SS 2012, Paris, Daga Ziober and Kati Nescher.

I usually choose DVN embroidered pieces but these shapes are just so nice:)

Chanel SS12 PARIS

Chanel, SS 2012, Paris, Anja Rubik and Rose Smith.

I know it looks like I chose the 2 most boring looks but the construction is amaze.

Balmain SS12 PARIS

Balmain, SS 2012, Paris, Kasia Struss and  Daria Strokous.

Really think Olivier Rousteing is doing an amazing job. Especially embroideries!

Balenciaga SS12 PARIS

Balenciaga, SS 2012, Paris, Laura Kampman and Kori Richardson.

Shorty shorts! Like the models dont have long enough legs already!

Alexander McQueen SS12 PARIS

Alexander McQueen, SS 2012, Paris, Kate Kojushkina and Siri Tollerod.

Someone put it well, Sarah Burton IS Alexander McQueen DNA.

Finding Balance

Do you ever wish there were more hours in the day? Lately I've been feeling that way as the hours and days fly by in a blur. Finding balance in my life when I'm juggling so many roles means I have to make choices. I find I am saying no much more often than I used to.

One lovely invite that I really wish I could accept is to see Saena's capsule collection in Paris. I discovered Saena - a sophisticated and romantic line of women's clothing and accessories - this summer when I was in Berlin. The designer, Saena Chun, completed an internship at Celine and then worked at Sonia Rykiel as well as Chloe before beginning her own label in Berlin. "Every woman has the desire to have something special in her wardrobe, something that only belongs to her and no one else - this one favourite garment, which gives her the confidence to get through the day." Between her major collections,  Saena works on various projects that reflect her creative spirit and artistic perspective in collaboration with other artists.

Instead of going to Paris, I'll be finalizing my keynote address for the Costume Society of America mid-west conference, doing research, trying to narrow down my thesis topic and hoping to find a new equilibrium in my life.

Thank you so much to all of you who sent me emails, Facebook messages and left comments on my last post. It means more to me than words can express to get so many kind and thoughtful words of support and encouragement. I know I can do it, but it is not going to be pretty and it is definitely not going to be easy!

All Eyes on Kees van Dongen in Paris

The exhibition "Van Dongen: Fauve, anarchist, socialite" at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris presents the work of a painter who was once called "The Idol of Paris" at the height of his fame. Known for his portraits of Parisian socialites, this prolific painter was also the driving force behind Fauvism. Van Dongen was born in Rotterdam in 1877 and died in Monaco at the age of 91.

Kees van Dongen was only twenty years old when he moved to Paris. Anxious to conceal his beginnings as a draughtsman, he cultivated the myth of a meteoric rise to fame as an artist. In fact, he was quite calculated in his approach to his career by befriending art critics and society patrons with regular salon and studio parties. Included in his circle of influential friends was the couturier Paul Poiret and the eccentric Italian muse Marchesa Luisa Casati. Although van Dongen also painted Paris landscapes, interiors, circus performers and other works, I was most captivated by his society portraits.  Slightly abstracted and stylized, these portraits beautifully document the fashions of the 1920s and 1930s.

The exhibition includes approximately 90 paintings and drawings, as well as ceramics, dating from 1895 to the early 1930s. Designed in association with the Boijmans Van Beuningen Museum, this exhibition at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris runs until July 17, 2011. The exhibition catalogue called All Eyes on Kees van Dongen (available in both French and English) provides a comprehensive history of the artist's work and life.

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris
11 avenue du President Wilson
75116 Paris
www.mam.paris.fr

Book Review: Lunch in Paris

This is one of the books I packed on my recent trip to Paris. When I travel overseas, I seem to want to sleep when I should be awake and am awake when I should be sleeping, so packing a good book is a must. Lunch in Paris, A Love Story with Recipes by Elizabeth Bard, captivated and entertained me during several nights of jet-lag induced insomnia.

Although the book is a memoir, it reads a little bit like romantic fiction. The story is about a girl that takes a break from her studies in London, goes to Paris for a weekend, meets a handsome Frenchman -- and marries him. Uprooting herself and her ambitions for the sake of love, she fills her days by visiting the markets and conjuring up dishes like Duck Breasts with Blackberries (page 101) on the hotplate in their tiny apartment. Her husband is blissfully happy while she struggles with her ambitions to be more than a wife. The tale is charming from beginning to end and the sixty recipes included in the book seem to be both mouth-watering and manageable.

This is the perfect book for either a lazy summer afternoon when you wish you were in Paris or a late night when you are in Paris and cannot sleep.  And when you are done, you can find out what happened after the book by visiting the author's blog at www.elizabethbard.com.

Title: Lunch in Paris, A Love Story with Recipes
Author: Elizabeth Bard
Publisher: Back Bay Books, Little Brown and Company, New York. 2010
Category: Memoir
Number of Pages: 326 plus reading group guide